Tuesday, October 12, 2010

Horicon, Water Fowl, and Fall

Just concluded a grand trip to Horicon, Wisconsin to check out the water fowl migration.  That the weather was fantastic and fall in full regalia made this trip one for the books. 

Rog and I got up and headed toward Chicago early Saturday morning.  The traffic on this major corridor between Detroit and Chicago was heavy, as usual, but moved well.  Our routine when heading this way is to stop in at the Jackson Starbucks for coffee to go.  Gives us a chance to stretch our legs and to get our morning shot of caffeine.  From there we head to exit 52, The Waffle House.  This restaurant serves fine breakfast fare in a homey atmosphere.  We particularly like the change in decor to reflect the season and the train that runs the perimeter of the ceiling.  Their bathrooms are something to see, too.  Can't speak directly about the men's but the women's is full of roses, even on the toilet seats!  It's also large, clean, and accommodating.  Voted one of the top five restrooms in America (can't say by whom but the notice is posted for all women to see as they primp in front of the mirror), even if the food wasn't good, the stop would be worth it. 
From there we drive around Chicago and stop on the northwest side at an antique mall located near Six Flags.  While I don't always find something there to spend my money on, I absolutely always enjoy strolling the aisles.  The merchandise is well chosen, in good shape, and attractively displayed.  So many wonderful memories are conjured up as I view the goods.  Thank goodness I'm disciplined in my buying habits or I would always walk out of there with something.  On this trip I found an attractive rhinestone evening bag and/or a couple of beautiful stemmed glasses, all things I don't need or collect.  I did, however, find something to buy -- a Julian Wehr moveable book.  In great shape and one I don't already own, this is a great addition to my collection of moveable books and the price was right, $20.00. 

We must have stopped at six other antique malls before finally arriving at Fox and Hounds, a restaurant we liked when we lived in West Bend, Wisconsin.  It holds memories of good food and good times and one unfortunate incident that involved a four year old Mark and a small item he helped himself to from the gift shop which upon discovering was returned to the gift store by the culprit.  It turns out we didn't eat there.  We didn't even have a drink in their bar.  The restaurant has been enlarged and in spite of that, was still full to overflowing with an hour wait before we could be seated.  We opted to head on to a country bar and restaurant we also frequented back then, Schwai's. 

Schwai's is now called Emily's but the ambience has not changed.  Yes, the meat counter is gone and sausages are not to be found on the menu but the bar is the same and the country feel remains.  We sat at the bar and ordered Emily's Favorite Salad which turned out to be exceptional.  Avacado, mixed greens, pine nuts, blue cheese, and more combined with a wonderful homemade dressing  to hit the spot.  That and a good IPA and we were on our way to Horicon.  We arrived at out hotel late, went straight to bed, and got up early to head to the marshes and see the birds.

The marshes were shrouded in layers of low lying clouds.  To the east, we could see the beginning of the sunrise.  The first hint that we were in for an other worldly experience was the six or more blue herons dining in a farmer's field.  They looked so princely as they strutted around the field.  They sounded something less than regal, however.  I can't exactly describe their call when they became aware of our presence.  Guttural, hollowly haunting, and songlike.  Not bird songs like the birds in my backyard, more primal and resonating.  More ghostly.  The sound fit the mist and the hour.

As the sun began to shine and the mist burn away, we saw flock after flock of birds flying above us.  We heard the familiar sound of Canadian geese but we also heard wood ducks and coots.  And gunfire.  It was hunting season and the hunters were out.

Driving farther into the marsh we came across egrets, more blue herons, white herons, loads of ducks and geese and coots floating on the marsh and dipping their heads into the water, tails up for the ducks and just the heads for those blessed with long necks, for the delights of fish and whatever else they liked to eat.  Whether on water or in the air, we were surrounded by birds.

We finished our visit to Horicon Marsh with a boat trip on the marsh itself and then lunch at Mom's.  We started our meal by sharing a piece of cherry pie.  Very, very, good cherry pie.  So good I would have bet we would be eating another by the end of the meal but by the time we were done, we had no room for more.  Rog had turkey, dressing, gravy, and French fries.  I had pork and the rest the same as Rog.  We were stuffed and feeling a bit guilty for not eating more healthily.  Now for the next leg of our trip, Madison and then Spring Green and Frank Lloyd Wright's Taliesen East.

In Madison we did more antiquing.  Rog found lots of ephemera to add to his collection at each of our stops.  I found a few more pop-up books.  What stands out most in my mind, however, was our dinner.  Having been to Madison before a few times, we knew of a brew pub, Asylum Ale, serving the best IPA.  That was our first stop and we were not disappointed.  We also knew of an Italian restaurant, Lombardino's, that not only served great Italian food but in an environment that complemented it.  There were no seats available so we opted to eat in the bar which to my mind was the better place anyway.  Dark, highlighted with twinkle lights.  Walls of painted mosiacs of Italy and Italian women.  We sat at a high table for two in the corner that allowed us to view the entire bar.  While ours was the last available table left, there were several seats left
at the bar itself, a situation that was to change before we left.  There would be people standing waiting for a space to open up, a definite sign of the quality of the food served here.  Rog had spaghetti with bolognese sauce and I had eggplant Neopolitano.  Both were outstanding. 

Monday morning we headed straight for Spring Green taking back roads.  I can't tell you how lovely the countryside was.  Rolling hills, fall colors, cows grazing in the fields, emerald green winter wheat fields contrasting with the browns and tans of corn fields, both ready to be harvested and harvested.  Neat farm houses, barns, and silos dotted the landscape.  Birds continued to be present in the sky and in the wetlands we continued to come across now and again.  The day was crystal clear and the air crisp but comfortable.  We were surrounded by the wonder of the season and the countryside and loved it all.

Our time at the Frank Lloyd Wright school and home was not recorded in pictures but as we have always enjoyed his work, we were not disappointed.  It is always amazing to us that this man had the architectural vision and foresight to build structures that are modern looking even today.  These particular buildings were conceived from 1902 to 1914 with additions up to the 1950's.  1902!  The average American farmer living nearby must have thought him insane!  And yet, I could comfortably live in any portion of the home he built for himself.  The use of glass, the openness of the living rooms, the way the outdoors comes in and the in out -- well, you just don't see that enough in homes designed now much less back then. 

We knew when we planned this trip we'd be getting home late.  When we reached the driveway after midnight, we were both glad to be home but more glad to have taken the time to make the trip in the first place.  We've already talked about when we will head back again.

Blue heron enjoying breakfast in a harvested corn field.

Sunrise #1

Sunrise #2

One of the many flocks we saw heading out for their daily foraging.  We were told they will go as far as fifty miles to dine in farmers' fields.  They fly out at sunrise and come back at sunset.

Sunrise #3

The sun is almost up and the mist is fast dissipating.


The fall wildflowers were as good as any flower garden I've seen.

The last bit of mist

Just one view of one small portion of the marsh. 

More flocks heading out to eat.  Remember there are hunters just waiting for them to fly over.

Five ducks on the right, a coot on the far left, and a heron or egret, I'm not sure.

I should have made sure the focus was on the herons but you get the picture.

A wood duck

We were told that herons are extremely patient and can hold a still position for long periods of time to assure a fresh catch for their meal.  This guy never moved while we watched.

More wood ducks

A different heron from the earlier one.  He was much more active and we got to see him make a couple of successful catches.  Once he caught the fish, he would toss it up and somehow get it positioned to swallow down that long neck.

The brown you see in the background is not a crop waiting to be harvested.  It is cattails.  All that land is under water and the cattails will eventually, after many years of growing and decaying, reclaim the land, eliminating the marsh.

More of Horicon Marsh and cattails.  Where there are trees, there is land.  Where there is brown, it's wet.

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